dyno run today

just got a micron highmount and wanted to see what kinda numbers the bike has. Best run was 102.7 if you cant read it. A guy the day before had the exact same bike but had a micron slip on instead of the high mount and got 107. Maybe the highmount reduces HP because of the kinks in the mid pipe?

How many miles does your bike have on it. The engine might still be tight.

What kind of torque did it see ?

i just passed break in, im at 1060 when i had the dyno run. Maybe it is still tight. I didnt get a torque reading.

Yeah...it might be a little tight still. How did you break the bike in??? AFAIK, if you break a bike in "hard" it will usually dyno higher.

Also, your tires can make a few HP, plus or minus.

Other than that, dynos might have different readings on any given day...it might be a combination of those things :shrug

All in all, if it is running good...I wouldnt worry too much about the HP/TQ.

Originally posted by Inferno
Yeah...it might be a little tight still. How did you break the bike in??? AFAIK, if you break a bike in "hard" it will usually dyno higher.

Also, your tires can make a few HP, plus or minus.

Other than that, dynos might have different readings on any given day...it might be a combination of those things :shrug

All in all, if it is running good...I wouldnt worry too much about the HP/TQ.

Yeah, the chart looks great, my lines are really smooth. Im happy with that. I pretty much went with the factory break in method. Although i went over at times. I didnt ride it really hard

Its hard to stay under 4K RPMs so for the first 500 miles, i stayed under 6K instead of 4K, and for 500-1000 miles, i stayed under 8K instead of under 6K.

So i didnt stay EXACTLY at factory recommended break in, but was pretty good about it.

I didn't go with the factory break-in.
Mine looked something like this.
http://www.zx6r.com/breakinmain.html

Mine dynoed at 108 rwhp and it is still bone stock! My last bike was broke in according to factory specs and it seemed to be down on power, so I changed my break in for this one.

One major factor to consider...

Correction Values. When I dyno my bike or car, I usually ask the operator to show 'Measured' values on the dyno, for a couple reasons.

The first reason is, I'm more concerned with the 'actual power' my car/bike makes...on that day...under THOSE conditions; I'm NOT concerned what power the bike/car would make under 'ideal' conditions. My bike dyno'd at 109whp a few months ago. If I drove the bike to Denver, it'd likely dyno around 95-100hp. People in Denver select 'corrected', and viola! It goes to 109 again. Why? It's the dyno's math-program which tells the operator what the hp would 'likely be' down closer to sea level, etc. I'm not interested in 'probables' - I'm interested 'actuals'.

'but how can you then compare your bike's power, to one in Denver?' - that question leads me to my next reason;

I don't. I don't compare my bike with those in Denver. I compare by bike against other bikes dynoing on the same day, on the same dyno. Removes all 'guess work' and keeps me away from one of my greatest fears: Benchmark Racing:

"Oh yeah?? well MY Bike is faster, cuz I dyno'd at blah blah blah"

Screw that. I think of a dyno pull as a 'snapshot in time' picture of what my bike/car did on THAT dyno on THAT day under THOSE conditions. I don't value or de-value my bike/car based on one moment in time. I enjoy my bike; having it be the most or least 'powerful' doesn't change that. Why? Cuz it's pointless; I can't afford a different bike. This is the bike I have, and will likely have for years to come. I sure as shit better be happy. Cuz I'm Poor. lol :)

Things, evironments, running conditions change constantly. I remember running a dyno with my old Ford Probe GT. I put down 235 front wheel hp. After that pull I changed the spark plugs. Next run? 242whp. Third pull, with the fan closer to the FMIC = 248whp.

Things change...from run to run...from shop to shop.