Cycle Forums: Motorcycle and Sportbikes Forum banner

1 - 1 of 1 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
64 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
While I was changinging the fuel filter I was horrified to find rust in the fuel tank of my 1700mile 2001 Ducati ST2.It seems the previous owner didnt realize that you had to keep stabilizer and a full tank of fuel in your tank for winter storage.It was a light surface rust on the top of the tank and some pretty scaley stuff on the bottom.I have no idea how my bike was running because I wouldnt consider the substance in the tank to be flamable,lol.
Each Kit Contains:


MARINE CLEAN™ to remove gum, sludge, varnish
METAL READY™ to remove rust & prepare tank for sealer
U.S. STANDARD TANK SEALER™ creates a permanently sealed tank
CLOTH PATCH for sealing large holes or reinforcing weak areas
BRUSH for applying patching system to exterior of tank
DETAILED INSTRUCTIONS to take you easily through each step of tank restoration

I was blown away how good the tank came out.I took three days to prep and clean the tank and another three to dry the inside with forced hot air aka hair drier(very important).The tank has taken about 4 days to fully cure.
It has a silver finish inside and as is good as new.I am so glad that I decided to change the in tank fuel filter because the bike was running so good I figured it was all set in there.

This is the web site http://www.por15.com/product.asp?productid=306

Most guys who restore cars know that this company is the leader in restoration coatings.Any questions just drop me a line...

Bill

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Revised 4/18/03
Cycle or Utility Tank Repair
PLEASE READ THIS INFORMATION CAREFULLY BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO
REPAIR YOUR FUEL OR UTILITY TANK.
It is important to understand each product in your repair kit and how it works, because proper chemical
interaction is essential for achieving the best possible bond of the sealer to the inside of the tank.
THE NATURE OF FUEL
All organic fossil fuels (gasoline, diesel fuel, fuel oil, etc.) gradually deteriorate if left unused in a tank.
If a tank "sits" for months or years, gum and varnish deposits form on the walls of the tank, and are
very difficult to remove. Often, it is hard to see this contamination because the tank looks okay even
though the deposits are present. It is always best to assume that there is foreign matter or
contamination in a tank you wish to restore, even though that tank may appear to be perfectly
clean.
MARINE-CLEAN
This is the first product you will use in the restoration of your fuel or utility tank. Marine-Clean is a
very powerful cleaner that will break down gum and varnish deposits in your fuel tank, but it will take
time and often repeated application. A hot solution of Marine-Clean is more effective that a cold
solution. This product is caustic and alkaline, and therefore your tank must be neutralized and
acidified before gas tank sealer can be used most effectively. Follow directions on bottle very carefully.
METAL-READY
Metal-Ready is an excellent prep for any coating or paint product, and it is essential that it be used
before gas tank sealer is applied to your tank. Metal-Ready is also the best rust remover available, and
it will dissolve all the rust and scale that has formed in your tank. In instances of heavily built-up rust
formed over many years of neglect, the application and use of Metal-Ready will enable your POR-15
Fuel Tank Sealer to chemically bond with whatever rust may remain in the tank and form a permanent
non-porous barrier against further rusting. The primary job of Metal-Ready is to change the ph
of your tank from alkaline to acid, because coatings and paints adhere much better to acid-prepped
metals. Follow the directions for Metal-Ready, and be sure to rinse your tank thoroughly with water
afterward, neutralizing the surface.
TANK SEALER
The Tank Sealer in your kit is impervious to all fuels. The most important thing to remember is that
your tank must be totally, completely, bone-dry before sealer can be poured into it. We recommend
you use a hair dryer or other air-supplied device for an extended period of time to make sure no
moisture remains in your tank. Putting the tank in the sun will not remove the moisture, nor will
letting it "sit" for an extended period of time. YOU MUST INTRODUCE MOVING AIR INTO THE
TANK, PREFERABLY WARM AIR, IF ALL THE MOISTURE IS TO BE REMOVED. No shortcuts,
please. If any moisture is present in the tank when you pour in the sealer, IT WILL NOT WORK
PROPERLY and all your hard work will be wasted.
Follow directions on sealer can and let cure for at least 96 hours (4 days) before re-fueling.
Caution: Left-over sealer may not be used again and may be put back into the can, but DO NOT PUT
THE LID BACK ON THE CAN TIGHTLY OR IT MAY EXPLODE! Leave the can open and it will
harden overnight; then you can throw it out the next day.
PATCHING LARGE HOLES OR SEAMS
Remove all paint around area to be patched. Soak area with Metal-Ready and keep wet for a minimum
of 30 minutes (place a small cloth over the wet area and saturate with Metal-Ready). After
washing with water and drying thoroughly, paint a thin coat of tank sealer on area to be sealed and
lay a cloth patch into the wet sealer. Then paint the cloth with sealer, making sure not to let the
sealer run. When dry to the touch, but still slightly tacky, apply another coat. Let cure for 96 hours.
INC.
POR
15 15
POR
R INC.
 
1 - 1 of 1 Posts
Top