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Speaking of winterizing...

1K views 22 replies 15 participants last post by  Smitty 
#1 ·
Yes, I know it's early and I'm jinxing the weather just by asking. :rolleyes:

Any preference of when to change the oil? Before I winterize or when it comes out of hibernation?

I can't decide if it's better to put fresh oil in before the three months the bike will sit, or to just let it sit and then drain and fill with fresh right before riding.
 
#3 ·
now, with the winter coming, is it a good time to send it to the shop to get it all adjusted, a new chain... so on and so on? or should I wait till right before the new season?:confused
 
#4 ·
Can't get that cold in Nothern Kentucky can it? ALl I do to mine in the fall is remove battery b/c I ride it about 2 or 3 times a month. Only problem is those days are usually consecutive b/c when it warms up its only for a few days. In the springtime (aprilish) I change the oil for a fresch season. Plus in the winter I rarely get the bike to high rpms so the old oil doesn;t bother me as much.
 
#5 ·
Damein said:
now, with the winter coming, is it a good time to send it to the shop to get it all adjusted, a new chain... so on and so on? or should I wait till right before the new season?:confused
Well, it's up to you, but if it were me, I'd wait and save my cash and do it all next year, that way the bike will be all set for another season of riding.
 
#7 ·
Usually what I do is use the winter as a time to stock up on the old $$$. I buy the little things over the winter, then when the weather breaks the first thing I do is change the oil and head down to the shop and start spending $$$.:draggin
 
#9 ·
Change your oil before and after winter you dont want your bearings sit there and be eatin away by the acid in old oil. And dont start your bike through the winter for only a few minutes this just makes more condensation in the crankcase which then makes more acid.
 
#14 ·
cappy said:
How long of a storage period warrants draining the crabs? And how do you do it?
More than a month, I would think. When gas sits in the carbs, it forms rings in the float chamber. Also, it tends to gum everything up when it dries in the jets :)

Most carbs have a little allen screw on the bottom of the float chamber...open it up, gas drains out.
 
#15 ·
The Crusher said:
I actually do it both times. Right before the end of the season so it sits with clean oil, then in the spring, drain that out and refill with new oil.
this is what I do also, but why put oil in for the winter?
Oil does get an acidic quality to it over time, that is why it is ecommended to change it in the fall and spring, but why not drain the oil out in the fall, then add new oil in the spring?
you will not be startign it without a battery anyways, and the oil is just going to sit in the oil pan anyways. I will do no good to the motor there.
 
#16 ·
karl_1052 said:
this is what I do also, but why put oil in for the winter?
Oil does get an acidic quality to it over time, that is why it is ecommended to change it in the fall and spring, but why not drain the oil out in the fall, then add new oil in the spring?
you will not be startign it without a battery anyways, and the oil is just going to sit in the oil pan anyways. I will do no good to the motor there.
Thats a good point. Some would say that the oil would run down off the parts and there would be a chance of rust but i think you would have to let the bike sit for much more than a month for this to happen. And if we're talking cylinders it wouldnt matter anyway because even with oil in the crankcase it wouldnt reach them.
 
#17 ·
Couldn't you just ride down your steet and then shut the fuel petcock off to starve the carbs of gas? wouldn't that clear the bowls? Maybe turn it over with the starter a few times as well? With the choke on?

Even if you were to go through with draining the carbs, wouldn't you want to turn the engine over a few times to sort of "air out" the carbs? Ya know make sure all the gas is vaporized and blown through?:confused
 
#19 ·
Anyone ever hear of some kind of spray or somthing that you put in your engine in the winter? I heard that this stuff creates a foam throughout your engine protecting it. I know a few of my freinds who use it in their snowmobiles during the summer. I havent looked into it and dont know the facts or even how it works but i was wondering if you guys heard of/use it.
 
#20 ·
That's a good link crammer, thanks:)

The author suggests NOT draining the float bowls?:confused He says Fuel stabalizer is all that's needed? Wouldn't it also be a good idea to kill the engine for the last time by shutting the fuel petcock off? That would at least LESSEN the amount of gas in the carbs. You could even crank it with the starter, and with the choke on(?), a few more times to remove even more gas from the carbs.


redrider2k2, are you talking about stuff that get's sprayed into the cylinders or the crankcase or what?
 
#21 ·
cappy said:
redrider2k2, are you talking about stuff that get's sprayed into the cylinders or the crankcase or what?
Not really sure i didnt get many details on it. Supposedly it fils the crankcase and cylinders (posibly the comb chambers) with some kind of foam that is supposed to protect the engine then when you want to use the Snowmobile/Bike again im guessing you would have to put in some other chemical to get rid of this foam...Could all be just BS too...thats what im trying to determine.
 
#23 ·
Having lived in Western Canada all my life & been riding for 56 yrs I only do the following.
#1. Wash or clean up the bike.
#2. If the bike is close to oil change time then do it, otherwise wait till Spring.
#3. Fill the fuel tank & pick up a container of fuel stabailizer READ THE INSTRUCTIONS for not all is needed in the 19 to 21 gal fuel tanks we have. With that in then take the bike out for a short 5 to 10 minute spin & in that way stabilizer & fuel are in the carbs, so no sweat about draining them.
#4. Remove the battery & take it to some place where the temp will be around 50 to 60. Use a low 2 to 4 amp trickle charger on it for about an hour each month & just before you are going to fire up the bike in the spring.
#5. Then I just leave the bike on the prop stand or leaned up against the inside of the garage or if you have a center-stand then use it.
Come Spring put in the perked up battery, check the tyre pressure & that is all you will need ---- simply fire up the bike. Mind you if there is a big pool of oil under the bike then you have a problem ----- all year around I part my bikes over cardboard so if even a drop of oil came off the bike I would know it.
Prior to fuel stabilizers at our m/c shop we would store customers bikes & did the above bar the fuel stabilizer thing as it was not around. Come spring we would check the tyres & just 3 to 5 prods would fire up the customers bike.
I hung onto one bike for around 14 to 15 yrs & there was never any problems of using the simple above system. I am a strong believer in KISS system.
 
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