But by changing your idle up, your tps may read 1 closed.
I guess I'm more confused than I though I was.... :confused :confused :confused
Your idle adjustment and Throttle Position Senson are wholly independent of each other. Even if they weren't, wouldn't setting the TPS so that it reads 1 (open throttle) as opposed to -1 (overly closed throttle/loose cable) just tend to make your motor run richer at idle? If that were the case, why wouldn't you just adjust the air bleed screws to do that instead? That's the "proper" way, and is less effort, isn't it? Or am I confusing myself?
Anyways, I set mine so the TPS reads properly (Zero - 0). I also left the idle adjuster alone, and set my idle using the air bleed screws on the sides of the throttle bodies. After all, that's what they're there for, right? Please forgive me if I'm just being overly sensitive, but why bother to go through all that trouble to 'fool' the bike's computer, when setting the bike up to run properly using what Aprilia provides isn't very hard? :confused
For a newb, 30~45 minutes spent under the tank with a set of vacuum guages and a couple screwdrivers is really all it takes. It's not even important for the cylinders to be perfectly synched/balanced: The (Mille) service manual says you should use the trim screws in the ECU to set proper CO emissions, and that you only need to check that vacuum is in the correct range (22.5 cm Hg, plus or minus ten percent). A decent mechanic should be done in 10~15 minutes.
Here's a Falco page on the procedure, including pics. Mille is the same, except you have more bodywork to wade through.
CYLINDER SYNCHRONIZATION and
IDLE MIXTURES
**********************
As far as stalling during on/off throttle transitions - What's your idle set at? During an early service, the mechanic set my bike up to idle at 900 RPM or so, and I had that problem. Raising my idle back to proper levels cured it. (The manual says 1200RPM, btw.)
Sorry if I'm mis-interpreting what you're posting...
Scott :toothy